Jazz City Milk Bar, Darlinghurst

One way to conjure up the past is with sugar, cream and fizz. This is exactly what the new Jazz City Milk Bar in Darlinghurst does – it evokes the type of old-school American diner where you sip on shakes or root beer floats and then battle spoons over who gets to finish the banana split.

Retro-style signage adds to the time-tripping feel, as does the black-and-white footage screening on one wall (I caught a glimpse of an old Miles Davis concert), as well as the checkered flooring, Deco lights and other flashback-rich touches.

Of course, there are some contemporary influences, as the scrolling LED sign in the open kitchen reminds us. This spin-off to Dan McGuirt's nearby Jazz City Diner is inspired by "Albert Adria, Christina Tosi, Karen McGuirt and Mr Lou". So you know that this is a place ruled by invention and fun.

Here, you can chase away the heat with the fizz and pop of a Coke Spider ($8) or A&W Root Bear Float; or a malted milkshake ($8) in a run of flavours (raspberry, peanut butter, coconut, mango, strawberry – passionfruit is especially delicious).

Currently, the menu is only serving cakes and sweets, so you can try a Peanut Butter and Jelly Cookie ($4), Banana Split ($9) or a Coconut Cream Pie ($8) – the latter's whipped-soft, coconut-toasted topping is nicely paired with a splodge of strawberry ice-cream or whatever scoop takes your fancy. You can also pick up some Bazooka Joe gum or Tootsie Rolls, if you need an extra sugar fix.

Expect more comprehensive – and savoury – menus later in the week, with weekend breakfast likely to start this Sunday. Eggs Louis Armstrong, Oatmeal-Mushroom Risotto and 'Killer Diller' Cajun Meatloaf with Buttermilk-mashed Potatoes are what's on the cards, according to Good Food.

So it's not just about a sweet-charged past; at Jazz City Milk Bar, the future looks good, too.

Jazz City Milk Bar, Republic 2 Courtyard, Palmer Street (between Burton and Liverpool Streets), Darlinghurst NSW. Follow on Facebook