Here's a sweet story about the new Kepos Street Kitchen in Redfern.
Michael Rantissi and Kristy Frawley (both of Bathers' Pavilion) were on Location Watch, looking for the dream spot to start a restaurant. On the way to Waterloo's Aldi supermarket, they noticed the vacant Strangers With Candy site nearby and remarked that it would be perfect. On leaving Aldi with their groceries – in one of those star-aligning, wish-granting moments – the "For Lease" sign had appeared in the cafe's window. They rang the real estate agent, who was amazed at the hyperspeed at which they'd contacted her. She'd only put the sign up ten minutes ago.
And so it is that, a week ago, that the window was ready for another notice – that Kepos Street Kitchen was now open. So far, it's covering two mealtimes (with dinner coming soon) and offering a menu with a Middle Eastern inflection. For breakfast and lunch, there's Soft Baked Eggs ($14), with a hefty sourdough slice for sponging up the sweet tomato shakshuka and a dish of coriander tahini for adding dollops of herbal tang. You'll also see tables filling with orders for Zucchini Fritters ($18), which come adorned with smoked salmon, poached egg and a feather or two of dill, or jars revealing geological layers of toasted Granola, Iranian spiced fruit and nut compote and house-set yogurt ($12).
There's reliably good coffee by The Grounds, but the sunray-heavy weather is a good excuse to ask for the Home Made Lemonade ($4.50). You know it's freshly prepared, because your glass basically looks like an aquarium wall of mint leaves and lemon wedges. And the drink lands that perfect pitch of citrus zing and sweetness.
There's also a counter decked with sweets, like chocolate halva brownies and pecan and maple scrolls, but try not to get distracted from ordering the Churros Dulce De Leche ($12). Soft, crisply ridged pastry fingers that have been rained upon with a generous pattering of sugar, they are so greatly comforting and satisfying. Even if you are a dessert-hoarder, the serving size of eight pieces means you can share without resentment kicking in later on – there's no way to eat all the churros solo anyway.
Although enjoy the sugar high from proving me wrong …!
Kepos Street Kitchen, 96 Kepos Street, Redfern NSW (02) 9319 3919 www.facebook.com/KeposStreetKitchen